Just as I discovered last year, vegan is still the “in”
thing. In another city, at least half these restaurants would have FOR LEASE
signs plastered on their windows after a twelve-month experiment. But Los
Angelinos are different. (You knew that.) They don’t seem to cringe over words
like kale, quinoa and miso. In fact, they embrace them. As I enjoy my Seasonal
Harvest salad at Veggie Grill—vegetarian fast food—, I peruse the menu where
the healthy ingredients are adorned with enticing adjectives—infused quinoa, agave-roasted walnuts, shaved
beets. (Okay, the descriptors could use revision. I don’t like the image of
the cook in the back lathering the beets up with lotion and taking a Gillette
blade to them. Savage and unappetizing.)
There is even a line at Veggie Grill. The lunch crowd really
is a crowd. It’s nothing like the out-the-door queue I find myself in every
time I go to one of the multiple locations of Tender Greens, but this is still quite
a spectacle, with so many non-vegetarians feasting on veggie fast food. My
friend Rich used to say you can spot the vegetarian—women, at least. “They have
bad hair. Always.” That was many years ago as we ate at one of L.A.’s veteran
vegetarian restaurants, Real Food Daily. At the time, I had an urge to defend
veg women. I looked around, indignant, intent on presenting evidence to the
contrary. Bad hair all around. Slam. But now as I look around, I can’t win a
round of Spot the Vegetarian. Not if bad hair is the clue. Everyone has decent
hair. Maybe it has something to do with kale. I don’t think we did much with it
back then.
As someone who typically scans a menu for the one and only
meal choice—veggie primavera, again?!—it
is refreshing to have so many options. There are past favorites like RFD and
Sun Café (Sweet Kale Shake!) and then there are the names of other restaurants
that omnivores I meet freely spout off with specific menu choice
recommendations—Raw, Native Foods and Café Gratitude, the buzzy vegan
destination in Venice (and multiple locations), co-owned by vegan folk-rock
singer Jason Mraz. There are so many choices that I can pass on the non-dairy
ice cream shop in Santa Monica and the vegan bakery in a part of Venice where
parking is next to impossible. I don’t need to get desperate. Heck, I even have
choices in “regular” restaurants. Waiters are familiar with questions about
rennet. They don’t just squint their eyes and make up an answer. I can fully
enjoy the dining experience.
I realize my eating issues are extremely complex. But I
wonder if living year-round in a place where vegetarian/vegan habits are so
normalized might steer me, to borrow a favorite Indigo Girls song, Closer to
Fine. I can ponder that as I get back in
line and order a side of the orange-glazed Crispy Cauliflower to go.
Why not
treat myself?
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